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Between stone and light: how to look at a diamond's sparkle

A diamond does not produce light. It takes it in from above, sends it from one facet to another and returns it to the eye. The name of this collection, “Between stone and light”, is about that journey.

What we call sparkle covers distinct effects. Brilliance is the white light that comes back to you. Fire is the coloured flashes that appear when the stone splits the light. Scintillation comes from movement: bright and dark points that switch on and off as the hand moves.

All of this depends on cut quality far more than on weight, as our article on the 4Cs of a diamond explains. Too shallow or too deep, a diamond lets the light escape through the bottom. Shape plays a part too: a round brilliant multiplies small flashes, an emerald cut gives broad, calm reflections. The journal compares diamond shapes one by one.

Frequently asked questions

Not only under the spotlights of a shop window, which flatter every stone. Move close to a window, then look at the diamond in the shade, under ordinary lighting: a well-cut stone stays lively everywhere. Move your hand, since scintillation only shows in motion.

Almost always because it is greasy. Cream and soap leave a film under the stone that stops the light. A bath of lukewarm water with a few drops of washing-up liquid and a soft brush bring back its sparkle; the method is in our article on caring for diamond jewellery.

Yes. It is the same carbon crystal, which handles light in the same way. At equal cut quality, the eye sees no difference in sparkle between the two.