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Chains: link, thickness and length

A chain is worn on its own or under a pendant, and those are not the same purchase. On its own, it needs enough presence to be seen. Under a pendant, it has to go unnoticed while carrying the weight: too fine, and it wears where the bail rubs.

The link makes the difference. Cable and curb links, made of clearly separate rings, are supple, strong and can be repaired link by link. Very tight links, such as the snake chain, hang smoothly but kink if they are twisted, and that kink can hardly be put right.

Ask too whether the links are solid or hollow. At equal thickness, a hollow chain is lighter and crushes more easily. For a gold chain, the colours are compared in our article on 18-carat yellow, white and rose gold. To dress it, see the necklaces and pendants.

Frequently asked questions

Measure a chain you already wear, laid flat, clasp included. Failing that, pass a thread around your neck down to where you want the chain to fall, then measure the thread. A chain meant to carry a pendant is chosen a little longer than a choker, so that the motif has room to move.

The lobster clasp, a drop-shaped spring clip, holds better than the small spring ring and is easier to handle. On a fine chain, the spring ring remains common because it is light. Whatever the clasp, it is often the jump ring just beside it that opens first: have it checked if it gapes.

Store it fastened, flat or hanging, apart from other jewellery. A knot is undone with two needles, on a flat surface, without pulling on the chain. Storage and cleaning are covered in our article on caring for jewellery.